Top 5 new Seoul restaurants

The hottest Seoul restaurants where foodies and "it" people are salivating in line

By Joohwan Kim, Frances Cha 29 June, 2012

The lines at these Seoul restaurants might make you lose your temper, but they'll work up your appetite. (In this photo: Pizzeria d’Buzza)

In Seoul, the fact that a certain restaurant may be trending online doesn't necessarily mean that it’s good. Or even that it actually exists.

Case in point: a while ago, “the fishing hoe restaurant” was the top searched-for term on Naver, South Korea’s largest portal site -- no mean feat, if you consider the fact that Naver has more than 70 percent of the market share in a country where 95 percent of households have broadband Internet.

But upon investigation, we found that although the restaurant looked ridiculously fun (customers could actually fish in a pool filled with live fish in the middle of the floor and have their catch served up on the spot) it had had also long gone out of business.

No, even in the most wired city in the world, the best kind of restaurant buzz is still via word of mouth –- preferably those from the foodiest of foodies.

Here are the hottest new restaurants in Seoul right now, all opened within the past year, where lines are long and the buzz is local, real and justified.

1. Vatos Urban Tacos

The Kimchi Carnitas Fries at Vatos.

Every time we’ve attempted to go to Vatos, we’ve been astounded by the lines and the wait time. And how we run into all the coolest people we know, all standing awkwardly around with growling tummies and increasingly bad tempers.

As any traveler knows, it’s damn difficult to come across good Mexican food anywhere outside of North America -- to the point where Vatos is regarded as a near miracle in this city. And the combination of Korean and Americanized Mexican cuisine (the Kimchi Carnitas Fries, ₩10,000, have sparked some copycat wars and a lot of gossip mongering) is so ridiculously good that you’ll wait out that two-hour line or die trying.

Another highlight of the menu is the Galbi Short Rib Taco, featuring Korean soy sauce marinated ribs and lots of cilantro and lettuce -- but not so much as to drown out the taste of the succulent meat.

The margaritas are also delicious. And if you can't pick between a margherita or a beer there's always the Dos-a-Rita Corona Rita.

66-8 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 용산구 이태원동 66-8); +82 2 797 8226; open Tuesday–Thursday 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 5 p.m.-10 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m.-2p.m., 5 p.m.-11 p.m., Saturday-Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.

More on CNNGo: Why do people take food so seriously?

2. Goldfish

Finally, decent dim sum in Seoul.

Despite its explosive popularity as the new “it” neighborhood, Garosugil was surprisingly lacking in good foodie options until recently.

A whole crop of restaurants have sprung up in the block left of the road on the Sinsa side, and one of the standouts is the new Chinese restaurant Goldfish, which serves handmade dim sum – the soft and delicious kind, instead of the hard little nuggets you find anywhere else outside of Hong Kong. Authentic Chinese teas are also available.

As it is popular with young people on their first “sogeting” (blind dates), it's best to be wary when you pick a spot, lest you suffer from indigestion after chortling over the godawfully awkward exchanges you’ll overhear (“Oh my god, you’re blood type A? Me too!”)

In addition to the delicious dim sum, we also like the dark interior with orb lights.

535-1 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu , Seoul (서울특별시 강남구 신사동 535-1) ; +82 2 511 5266; Tuesday-Sunday 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 6 p.m.-10:30 p.m., closed on Monday. Expect to pay around₩17,000 per person (lunch and dinner).

More on CNNGo: World's 10 best cities for foodies

3. Pizzeria d’Buzza

What a rich person's pizza looks like, apparently.

This pizza parlor is always so fully booked that the only sure way to grab a table is to drop by at 10:30 a.m. and write your name down on a reservation list for lunch beginning at 11:30 a.m.

The name is also a multilingual pun -- pronounced in Korean, "Buzza" sounds like "rich person," so Pizzeria d'Buzza would be like the "pizza of the rich."

But contrary to any misconceptions given off by the restaurant’s Konglish name, the food is not fake Italian. The crust is not too crunchy or dry, but in the vein of fine Neapolitan pizzas, made with authentic Italian ingredients, and baked in an open air clay pizza oven.

We recommend the Margherita con Bufala (₩16,300) which uses buffalo mozzarella imported from Italy, or the Buzza's Classic (₩14,000).

743-33 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (서울특별시용산구 한남동 743-33); +82 2 794 9474;www.buzzapizza.com; open daily, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; closed 3 p.m.-5:30 p.m. on weekdays.

More on CNNGo: 3 top Seoul restaurants for a foolproof first date

4. Goseumdochi (고슴도치)

The Demi-glace Hamburger Steak at Goseumdochi.

Three-month-old restaurant Goseumdochi -- meaning "hedgehog" in Korean -- is perched above the labyrinth of the narrow, congested streets of Sinsa-dong.

Reminiscent of a Japanese Western food joint, Goseumdochi's popularity can perhaps be credited to the calm, atmospheric lighting and décor and the simplicity of the cuisine.

Staple dishes include the Pork Tonkatsu (₩9,500) covered in Japanese Worcestershire sauce and the hamburger steak in demi-glace sauce (₩15,000).

For the homesick Tokyoite, it is a delicious reminder of home. For the Seoulite and the bewildered traveler, it serves up a comfortable minimalist meal as a quiet respite from the rest of the city.

Rather than trying to combine unusual tastes together, Goseumdochi goes by tried-and-tested tastes that everyone can relate to and enjoy.

548-4 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 강남구 신사동 548-4); +82 70 7571 5484; open daily, 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.

More on CNNGo: You wanna eat? You gotta pay: 10 stupidly expensive restaurants

5. La Categorie

The divine Lobster Bisque at La Categorie.

More high-end than any of the other restaurants on the list, La Categorie is located in an unassuming building with no signs or identification.

For a French fusion restaurant, La Categorie has reasonable prices, especially considering its exclusivity and quality.

While a lot of Western food has been sweetened to appeal to Korean taste buds, La Categorie offers very good French fusion and experimental meals.

In particular, we loved the Lobster Bisque (part of a ₩45,000 four-course meal) which features a fantastic balance of lemongrass, lobster and fresh sea urchin, combined with a sea urchin mousse and fish eggs.

Reservations required.

627-21 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul (서울특별시 강남구 신사동 627-21); +82 2 545 6647; Tuesday-Saturday noon-3 p.m., 6 p.m.-10 p.m.

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6 best tapas in Seoul

Craving croquetas? Aching for albondigas? Here's where to find the best Spanish flavors in Seoul

By Hannah Bae 20 September, 2011

Given Korea's love affair with small plates, it should thus come as no surprise that Seoul’s affinity for banchan has carried over into a hunger for tapas. 

In recent months, the Spanish specialties have spread across the city faster than you can say “¿Que pasa?”

Bursting with flavors from the tongue-tingling saltiness of anchovies to the piquant sharpness of Manchego cheese, tapas at these eateries prove they’re tops around town. 

1.Tapas Thursdays at the Banyan Tree

Feast on tapas at Banyan Tree.

With a new Spanish general manager shaking things up, the Banyan Tree began offering Tapas Thursdays at its Festa Bistro and Bar in August. Dishes like the rich, aioli-blanketed croquette stuffed with Serrano ham and potato give diners a taste of home -- that is, manager Alfonso Romero’s homeland of Spain. 

The Tapas Thursday promotion, which runs from 6 p.m.-11 p.m. every Thursday, gets you four tapas, plus two bottles of Peroni Nastro Azzuro beer for ₩40,000. (Yes, Peroni is Italian, but the light, crisp beer accompanies the tapas’ strong flavors nicely.)

The tuna confit topped with savory olive tapenade, fried squid with zesty anchovy dressing and the marinated olives come highly recommended. 

San-5-5 Jangchung-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu (중구 장충동 2가 산5-5); +82 2 2250 8170; www.banyantree.com

2. Mi Casa

Mi Casa’s ruby-red salmon curado al eneldo, or dill-cured salmon.

Another newcomer to the Seoul tapas scene is Mi Casa, the two-month-old baby of Spanish gyopo Mark Cho Wendel. A promoter of Spanish wines, olive oils and spices, Cho thought a tapas restaurant would be an ideal showcase of his products.  

“I wanted to bring back something of the culture I grew up with to share with friends,” says Cho, who spent more than 20 years growing up in Alicante on the east coast of Spain.

Mi Casa’s croquetas del mar, stuffed with shrimp and mussels.

Cho’s coastal roots have a strong presence on the seafood-studded menu. Standouts include the ruby-red salmon curado al eneldo, which comes streaked with creamy, sweet dill, and the gambas al ajillo, which highlights the restaurant’s famous olive oil from La Mancha by arriving at the table bubbling hot, just the way Koreans like their meals.

iPads serve up Mi Casa’s menus and Foursquare app users can rack up a free bottle of vino. 

Jaerim Building, 91-1 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu (서울시 강남구 청담동 91-1 재림빌딩); +82 2 546 3979; www.micasa.kr

3. El Olivo

Out in Gwacheon, El Olivo is a slice of the Spanish countryside.

You may need to schlep all the way out to Gwacheon to visit El Olivo, but its pastoral location is quite the asset. 

Harry Kim, the restaurant’s owner, has successfully created a slice of the Spanish countryside accessible to Seoul with his custom-built, Spanish-designed lodge to house the taperia at the foot of Mount Gwanak.

Tapas are chef Bernardo Novas’ specialty, and one of the best deals in the house is his brunch set. Just ₩15,000 gets you salad, three small plates and a cup of imported Oquendo coffee.

One trio includes pulpo with soft, boiled potatoes dusted with imported bittersweet paprika, the tender solomio minced rib meat and albondigas meatballs in a creamy almond-pumpkin sauce.

The eatery gets extra street cred with its plans to serve as a Spanish cultural center closer to Seoul (the official one is in Daegu) and the Spanish ambassador’s presence at the grand opening in April.

363-25 Gwacheon-dong, Gwacheon City, Gyeonggi Province (경기도 과천시 과천동 363-25); +82 2 502 1156; www.elolivo.co.kr

4.Albaizyn

Albaizyn’s colorful, rustic interior.

At eight years old, Albaizyn just might be the oldest Spanish restaurant in Korea. While newer places might favor sleeker decor, Albaizyn is a rustic hole-in-the-wall packed with tchotchkes from the Iberian peninsula. 

While the menu has a limited selection of tapas, restaurateur Simon Jung says when he’s in the mood to try something new, small plates provide him the perfect opportunity to experiment -- so call ahead if you’re a real tapas hound. 

Regular dishes include homey albondigas in tomato sauce and gambas al pil-pil, a shrimp dish that gets its name from the “pil-pil” sound that sizzling olive oil makes, says Jung. 

For longtime visitors to Albaizyn, it’s worth noting that the restaurant changed its menu two months ago. That’s thanks to the addition of Rose Lee, the new Spanish gyopo chef, who will oversee switches every season.

Hyehwa branch: 74-6 Hyehwa-dong, Jongno-gu (종로구 혜화동 74-6); +82 2 741 5841; www.albaizyn.com 

Hongdae branch: 166-2 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu (마포구 동교동 166-2); +82 2 334 5841

5. El Plato

El Plato’s favorite, the berenjena a la parilla, or eggplant, tomato jam and Manchego cheese, and the gambas al pil-pil.

Another stalwart on the Seoul tapas scene is El Plato, which, over the years, has managed to thoroughly reinvent itself. 

Chan Kim is still at the helm, but the original restaurant moved last year from its cozy space in student-heavy Hongdae to a much larger, modern Garosugil location. 

“When El Plato was just a baby, we mostly served students and stuck to an easy menu,” says Kim, as he shows off El Plato’s much-expanded offerings.  

“But now it’s like a teenager, and so we’ve elevated it by changing the kitchen staff and serving more complicated tapas.”

Longtime favorites like the deep-fried patatas bravas are still available (and still at low prices) but now there are the “gourmet tapas” like montaditos de jamon y huevo. The latter is an open-face sandwich packed with all the flavors of Spanish cuisine, from the salty ham, crispy shreds of fried potato and soft, slightly sweet egg.

Gangnam branch: 540-5 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu (강남구 신사동 540-5); +82 2 325 3515;www.elplato.co.kr

Gangbuk branch: Seoul Finance Center, B2, Taepyeongno 1-ga, Jung-gu (중구 태평로1가 서울파이낸스센터 B2층); +82 2 319 3502

6. Bodega

Jamon, glorious jamon.

A Seoul favorite among Spanish residents, Bodega has endeared itself to its core crowd even more with a recent change in its kitchen.

Barcelona native Manual Manzano started as the new chef about a month ago, and he is working with a wealth of Spain-sourced ingredients, from an extensive wine list to jamon iberico, sweet paprika, cloves and oregano.

Manzano himself recommends his crispy croquetas, which come with a variety of fillings, from chicken, jamon or even mushroom and cheese. He also suggests the crowd-pleasing Spanish omelet made with potato and onion.

Sharp notes in Bodega’s salsa verde keep the grilled Patagonian toothfish tasting fresh.

The grilled Patagonian toothfish with Manila clam in vinegary salsa verde is another foodie-approved choice. And who could turn down the earthy taste of garlicky fried mushrooms?

Inter-Burgo Building, B1, 130-5 Samjeon-dong, Songpa-gu (송파구 삼전동 130-5 인터불고빌딩B1층); +82 2 3432 8686; www.bodega.co.kr/

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Seoul's 5 best bibimbap

Readers all over the world voted bibimbap one of the world's 50 most delicious foods. Here's where to find it in Seoul

By CNNGo staff 13 September, 2011

There are many reasons why this healthy, colorful dish is so popular, and why the government and Korean companies are using centuries-old bibimbap as a headliner for globalizing Korean cuisine.

Whether you're looking for a light lunch option or a full-blown palatial feast, here are five restaurant names synonymous with bibimbap in Seoul. Go on the hunt for your favorite bowl of rice, vegetables, chili paste, egg and sliced meat. 

Bon Bibimbap: The franchise

The Bon Bibimbap franchise rather hilariously bills itself as "the Starbucks of Korea," and has the same goal of having a store on every corner.

Currently operating more than 126 branches all over the country in addition to branches in the United States, Japan and China, Bon Bibimbap took the office lunch hour by storm when it first opened less than a decade ago. 

Judging from the lines of locals out the door every weekday at noon, the franchise must be doing something right. 

Each small store is clean, cheerful and cheap, and offers up consistently decent and varied versions of bibimbap. 

The company's extensive "research kitchen" rolls out new experimental dishes with new "fusion" ingredients such as shrimp and other seafood. 

Bon Bibimbap recommends its "Spicy octopus dol-sot bibimbap" (₩8,500)  The pure vegetarian bibimbap (₩6,000) is a great light lunch option for the health and weight conscious. 

Insadong main branch: Jongro-gu Insadong 75-1; +82 736 4288; www.bonbab.co.kr

Go-gung: The palatial spread 

The naked bibimbap at Go-gung, before the veggies are added.

Literally meaning "old palace," Go-gung is considered the best bibimbap place in Seoul by the older generations. 

Despite the rather humble and nondescript interior of the Myungdong branch, the spreads that Go-gung features on its menu are both impressive and authentic. Korean diplomats like to bring their guests here for a seemingly casual yet surprising sumptuous dining experience.  

The spread is literally palatial, modeled after the cuisines served to the kings of the Joseon dynasty. Apparently bibimbap was a lunch staple even back then, as kings liked to eat the dish upon returning to the palace after a trip outside, but a "light lunch" in the royal context still consisted of at six or seven courses, with approximately 10 or more side dishes. 

The original Go-gung restaurant is located in Jeonju, a region famous for its bibimbap, and boasts 40 years of history as well as the first (if not only) bibimbap exhibition hall detailing the history and folktales associated with the age-old dish. 

Go-gung bibimbap set: ₩37,000

Jung-gu, Chungmuro-2-ga 12-14 (중구 충무로2가 12-14); +82 2 776 3211; www.gogung.co.kr

Bibigo: The Hallyuwood hopeful

Bibigo has the lofty goal of world domination.

The latest brainchild of Korea's largest food conglomerate, Bibigo is a modernized take on how to make bibimbap more appealing to the taste buds of the sophisticated urbanites of the world. 

You can bet that the brightest brains in the food industry went back to the drawing board (or the kitchen) time and time again to figure out the best way to globalize this traditional Korean cuisine. 

Bibigo's answer? A salad-type bibimbap that combines more fresh greens, the choice of a variety of meats including chicken breast and bulgogi, and sauce varieties that include modern options of lemon and sesame sauces in addition to the traditional gochujang (red pepper paste) and ssamjang (bean paste).

Bibigo rice: ₩7,500

Gwanghwamun Officia Building Sinmunno-1-ga, Jongro-gu 110-999 (종로구 신문로1가 광화문 오피시아빌딩); +82 2 730 7423; www.ibibigo.com

Jeonju Joongang Hweguan: The tourist trap 

Jeonju-Hwegwan: The granddaddy of bibimbap in Seoul.

It's rather odd, but every time we've been to Jeonju Joongang Hweguan, it has been 100 percent full with quiet Japanese tourists solemnly and reverently eating a dol-sot bowl while poring over their Seoul guide books that prominently display this tiny Myeong-dong restaurant on their front pages. 

Locals do make their way to this hole-in-the-wall during lunch hours, and the occasional Western visitor wanders in from time to time.

The taste tends to be richer, a little sweeter and more intense than the locals-only restaurants, which doesn't mean it's any less good. In fact, it's so delicious that the restaurant has been around for the past 46 years, and more than 30 years at its current location.

Be sure to print out a map before you set out, as the winding alleys of Myeong-dong tend to be quite bewildering for first-timers. 

Jeonju gopdol bibimbap: ₩10,000

Jung-gu Chungmuro-1-ga 24-11 (중구 충무로 1가 24-11); +82 776 5889; 
www.joins21.com/jeonju/index.html

Walkerhill Ondal: Opulence in a bowl 

Bibimbap -- the luxury edition.

Contrary to what one might expect, Korean restaurants are rare among Korean luxury hotels. 

Ondal Restaurant at the Walkerhill Hotel is one of two Korean restaurants in the luxury hotel scene in Seoul (the other being Lotte Hotel's Mugunghwa) and thus takes its culinary responsibility very seriously. 

Featuring naturally-grown vegetables and roots, as well as yook-hwe (raw beef) that cooks slowly in the insulated dol-sot, Ondal Restaurant's dol-sot option is the last word in bibimbap, as it well should be given the hefty price tag. 

Jeonju-bibimbap set: ₩55,000

Dolsot-bibimbap set: ₩55,000

Gwangjin-gu Gwangjang-dong San 21 (광진구 광진동 산21); +82 2 450 4518; 
www.sheratonwalkerhill.co.kr/eng/dining/korean_info.php

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6 best Gyeongridan Road eats

Tapas? Pad see yew? Something fried and Aussie? Gyeongridan Road has your foreign food fix

By Patricia Park 30 August, 2011

Itaewon has long been the go-to neighborhood for Western food -- the only place in Seoul to find a decent burrito, falafel, gyro or any other form of ethnic food roll-up.

The wave of international restaurants has since spread to neighboring Haebangchon (Noksapyeong station).

In this three-block stretch, no fewer than eight world cuisines dangle their menus, making Gyeongridan Road the restaurant row equivalent of a 1980s Benetton advert.

Here are the highlights.

1. Italian

Noxa Lounge

A restaurant masquerading as a lounge, Noxa takes its cues from the traditional Italian menu -- pizzas, pastas and focaccia sandwich sets. The secondi menu offers mussels, salmon and chicken.

Anyone looking for lighter fare can sit at the bar and order a pint of Kilkenny on draught and order from the antipasti menu: garlic bread, caprese salad, spinaci alla crema or cheese platter.

671 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu (용산구 이태원2동 671), +82 2 790 0776

Noon-2 a.m.; ₩3,000-₩18,000 for antipasti; ₩10,000-₩14,000 for primi; ₩14,000-₩23,000 for secondi

2. Spanish

Mi Madre

Mi Madre’s menu of tapas and paella draws its inspiration from chef Chung Seung-won’s experiences living in Andalucía. Chung suggests parties of two should order a paella (single servings OK) and several tapas to share.

Other popular dishes include the paella mixta (seafood, chicken, vegetables), croquetas of the day and berenjenas con miel, or fried eggplant with a touch of honey.

221-1, 2/F Itaewon2-dong, Yongsan-gu (용산구 이태원2동 221-1, 2층), +82 2 790 7875

11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., 5:30-10:30 p.m. (Monday, Wednesday-Friday); 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. (weekends, no siesta), closed Tuesday;  ₩16,000 for paella,  ₩6,500 for fried eggplant with honey, ₩8,000 for jamon.

3. Australian

Sydney Seafood

Sydney Seafood is a fish and chips bar, plain and simple. Try the salt and pepper baby calamari and chips and soft-shell crabs.

If you’re rolling more than four deep, splurge on the Sydney Seafood platter of fish, prawn cutlets, baby calamari, soft shell crabs, salad and chips.

671 2/F Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu (용산구 이태원2동 671 2층), +82 2 790 2722

5 p.m.-11 p.m. (Monday), 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. (Tuesday-Saturday), 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. (Sunday), ₩8,000-₩22,000 for fish and chips platters.

4. Japanese

Res2Go

More takeout joint than restaurant, Res2Go offers more permutations on teriyaki than you thought possible. Popular dishes include the chicken yakisoba, spicy pork teriyaki and Hawaiian chicken grill. It's popular with the U.S. military crowd.

559 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu (용산구 이태원2동 559), +82 2 749 9297

11 a.m.-10 p.m.; ₩2,500-₩6,000 for sides; ₩7,900-₩10,900 for entrees

5. Vietnamese

Le Saigon

Le Saigon seats a tight 16 and offers the usual Vietnamese staples of spring rolls, wings, pho, Saigon wraps and banh mi sandwiches. If you’re new to Vietnamese cuisine, go for the set menus, which offer a sampling of appetizers and entrees.

673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu (용산구 이태원2동 673), +82 2 790 0336, 

11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., ₩4,500-₩14,000 for appetizers, ₩7,000-₩8,000 for banh mi, ₩8,000-₩9,500 for pho, ₩16,000 for wolnamssam or Saigon wraps.

6. Thai

Buddha’s Belly

This tiny restaurant seats 10 and serves pad thai, pad see yew, tom yum and green red and penang curries. Sadly, no chicken satay appears on Buddha’s menu.

673 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-gu (용산구 이태원2동 673), +82 2 793 2173

11:30a.m.-10:30p.m.; ₩2,000-₩12,000 for appetizers and salads; ₩7,000-₩14,000 for rice, noodle and stir-fry entrees; ₩9,000-₩12,000 for soups and curries.

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Best 7 restaurants for the Seoul herbivore

Tantalizing options for vegans and vegetarians about town

By Hannah Bae 30 June, 2011

Vegans and vegetarians in Seoul often have a difficult time finding somewhere to get their veggie fix, as a lot of dishes that seem vegetarian are actually anything but. 

Kimchi, for example, is often made with fish sauce, while soy milk in Korea usually contains dairy.  

But as Seoul’s vegan and vegetarian communities have grown in recent years, so have the choices, says Seoul foodie Mipa Lee, who blogs about eating vegan on AliensDayOut.com.

“There are more vegan-friendly restaurants popping up, and more that are entirely vegan -– you never used to see that,” says Lee.

So for all the famished herbivores out there, here's a bunch of veggie-recommended joints around town. 

Temple Food 

Sanchon restaurant has been around for more than a decade, and is the mainstay of temple food in Seoul.Born out of Buddhist beliefs, this completely vegan cuisine makes full use of Korea’s plentiful wild vegetables, roots and herbs to delicious effect.

The granddaddy of temple food is Sanchon, a decades-old mainstay of Seoul’s tradition-focused
Insadong neighborhood. 

The brainchild of former Buddhist priest Kim Yon-shik, Sanchon serves patrons the richly memorable fare monks would eat at a rural temple.

The never-ending dishes that crowd each burnished tabletop make a meal here a truly spiritual experience.

“Sanchon is literally one of the best vegan restaurants that I have been to in the world,” says Zeb Tortorici, a vegan traveler in Seoul. “For lunch or dinner, you get some 20 small plates of creative, delicious, and traditional vegetarian Buddhist food.”

Baru is run by the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism.VeganBeats blogger Sae Hee Burke favors a neighboring temple food contender, Baru (sometimes spelled Balwoo), which is operated by the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism.

Baru’s sophisticated, modern take on tradition packs in flavor, from heat-packing fried mushrooms to crisp, surprisingly sweet dried fruit chips. Two new Baru offshoots offer simpler and more affordable meals.

For anyone seeking a taste of temple food in the company of omnivores, a good but pricey option is Chaegundaam in southern Seoul. Part of the ritzy Hanmiri restaurant group, Chaegundam boasts a handsome decor that takes a page from feng shui, while its food incorporates high-quality, organic vegetables and mountain produce.

In addition to purely vegetarian options, the restaurant also features set menus with fresh beef and seasonal fish. 

Contemporary Korean 

Osegye Hyang is located in Insadong, a great area for vegetarian eats.Insadong is a great neighborhood for vegan eats, and Osegye Hyang restaurant is one of the best in the area. 

The menu sports affordable and reasonably authentic dishes like the spicy vegetarian barbecue ssambap, which tastes just like its meatier inspiration: lettuce-wrapped bites of hot, sliced pork and rice. 

Osegye Hyang’s offerings come with plentiful side dishes including tangy kimchi and  sweet-and-sour vegetarian “fish cakes,” both of which are free of fish ingredients.

Osegye Hyang shares its management with the Achasan branch of the Loving Hut international vegan franchise, but each restaurant is individually operated and the menus vary.

Most branches, including the Sinchon one, serve low-priced versions of pungent doenjang jjigae and bibimbap.

Interesting fact: Loving Hut does raise some eyebrows for its spiritual affiliation -– all managers of franchises must follow “Supreme Master” Ching Hai’s Quan Yin Method, which some label a cult. 

Western Comfort Food 

The Honest Loving Hut franchise serves mouthwatering veggie burgers.Sometimes, though, you’re just jonesing for a mouthwatering veggie burger.

At So True restaurant, the focus is on local and seasonal ingredients.Blogger Mipa Lee tabs the recently opened Honest Loving Hut (part of the franchise) as her favorite burger destination.

Sibling trio Gyuneon, Seyoung and Suau Kim manage this Itaewon restaurant, serving up Italian-tinged comfort food that matches its cozy decor.

Try the Roasted Veggie Burger, which uses a pineapple ring as its patty, or the Tofu Burger, with its tangy ketchup-like sauce and filling patty. The Truffle Oil Pasta comes heaped with earthy mushrooms. 

Over in Cheongdam-dong, chef and food columnist Julie Choi runs her own charming veg-friendly eatery, So True. Choi does serve meat, but she says her focus is on local, seasonal ingredients. Her current signature dish is the cheese-free “vegetables yard” pizza, which comes loaded with vegetables and nuts. Avoid the jambalaya, though –- it’ll turn you into a fire-breather.

If cakes and scones are more your thing, check out Veggie Holic bakery in Hongdae.

The friendly owner, Ja Won Min, whips up low-sugar, low-salt goodies in her bright, cheerful shop.

While most items are vegan, a handful of items (marked with signs) do include dairy.

The tofu pizza roll is a soft bite of veggie-packed goodness, while the sunny yellow corn scone is dense and moist. The V brownie, though, tastes more like fruitcake.

Restaurant Information

Temple Food

Sanchon

14 Gwanghun-dong, Jongno-gu (종로구 관훈동 14); +82 2 735 0312;  11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; ₩22,000 for lunch, ₩39,600 for dinner (includes traditional performance).

www.sanchon.com

Baru

Gongyang Templestay Information Center, 5/F, 71 Gyeongji-dong, Jongno-gu (종로구 견지동 71번지 템플스테이 통합정보센터 5층); +82 2 2031 2081; 11:40 a.m.-3 p.m., 6 p.m.-9 p.m. (Reservations must be made at least three days in advance.); ₩25,000 for 10-course meal, ₩36,000 for 12; ₩53,000 for 15.

www.baru.or.kr

Baru second branch

Gongyang Kong Templestay Information Center, 2/F, 71 Gyeongji-dong, Jongno-gu (종로구 견지동 71번지 템플스테이 통합정보센터 2층); +82 2 736 2083; 7:30 a.m.-10 a.m., 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m.; ₩3,000 for breakfast porridge, ₩5,000-9,000 for lunch dishes.

Chaegundaam
Ildong Building, B1, 983 Daechi-dong, Gangnam-gu (강남구 대치동 983 일동빌딩 별관 B1층); +82 2 555 9173, +82 2 555 9174, noon-2:30 p.m., 6 p.m.-10 p.m. (weekdays); noon-3:30 p.m., 6 p.m.-10 p.m. (weekends and holidays); ₩22,000 for vegetarian lunch set; ₩38,000-₩50,000 for vegetarian dinner set.

www.chaegundaam.com

Contemporary Korean

Osegye Hyang

14-5 Insa-dong 12-gil, Jongno-gu (종로구 인사동 12길 14-512 ;  +82 2 735 7171,  noon-3 p.m. and 4 p.m.-9 p.m.; meals from ₩5,000.

www.go5.co.kr/main.htm

Loving Hut (Sinchon branch)

33-10 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu (서대문구 창천동 33-10), +82 2 333 8088; noon-9 p.m.; dishes from ₩3,500.

www.lovinghut.kr

Western Comfort Food

Honest Loving Hut

2/F, 118-62 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu (용산구 이태원동 118-62 2층); +82 2 795 2111; 12-9 p.m. (closed Wednesday); ₩9,000-₩13,000 for salads; W12,000-₩15,000 for pastas; ₩9,900-₩14,900 for veggie burgers.

www.lovinghut.kr

So True

Jinseong Building, 58-6 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu (강남구 삼성동 58-6 진성빌딩) +82 2 549 7288; noon-10 p.m. (Monday-Saturday, closed Sunday); ₩9,500 for lunch; ₩13,000 for salads; rice and pasta dishes from ₩15,000.

blog.naver.com/julieintoday

Veggie Holic

204-59 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu (마포구 동교동 204-59); + 82 70 4114 0458; 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; baked goods from ₩1,500.

www.veggieholic.co.kr

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South Korea's live octopus fetish

Squirming tentacles wrapping around on your tongue make this surprisingly mild Korean favorite an unforgettable culinary experience

By Frances Cha 3 June, 2011

Wooden chopsticks are key to gripping the slimy tentacles.

How do you eat a live octopus? Watch and learn.

 

It's the tentacles that get them -- literally, figuratively.

The slithering, searching, suction-cupped strands that lure fearless mouths to live octopus -- almost always alongside soju (rice wine) -- are also the features that make eating the dish a unique experience.

For first timers as well as veterans, the sensation of a live animal wrapping around the face and tongue as it struggles for its life can be both compelling and grotesque. It's a huge part of the attraction of downing live octopus.

As for the taste, the octopus itself is surprisingly mild  -- dunked in a mixture of sesame oil and salt sauce, it bursts with robust flavor.

Surging popularity

Live octopus, or san-nakji, has long been a popular side dish for Koreans, especially when drinking. Only in recent years, however, has the squirmy delicacy shot to fame among foreigners.

Its legendary status is largely due to the notorious scene in the 2003 Korean shock film “Oldboy," in which actor Choi Min-Sik stuffs a whole octopus into his mouth and chews grimly as he plots revenge.

Famed live octopus restaurant

One of the most popular Seoul restaurants for live octopus is Gasiri. With eight official branches, Gasiri has also inspired numerous copycats that bear the same name.

“San-nakji is a great source of iron,” says Gasiri owner Eun-hee Sohn. “It has an antioxidant effect on your liver.”

Although san-nakji are often locally referred to as being of the squid variety, with eight legs, they are actually of the octopus family, and are mid-sized, long-armed octopus, to be precise. 

The 43-year-old Sohn, who opened the first Gasiri restaurant 10 years ago, dispels the notion that live octopus is sought out only by "ajusshis" (older Korean men) partying after work.

“We have wedding after-parties here, and bachelor parties, too,” says Sohn. “San-nakji is also popular for large family dinners.”

“It is a good side dish to alcohol because it is non-greasy and has a unique, fresh taste,” says Jin-Hyung Chu, 53, a Gasiri regular. He says he also appreciates the unusual texture.

“You should eat it with raw garlic and doenjang,” says Sohn, adding that the tentacles dislike the smell of garlic, and thus “chase” them from sticking to the throat.

Gasiri, 210-3 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu (강남구 논현동 210-3); +82 2 3443 2614

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